Hiawatha Bike Serial Numbers The later Hiawatha bikes of the 40’s and the 50’s were made by the Manufacturing company, were more agile and had less bulky look. The hallmark tank, located between the handlebars and the saddle was bulkier in the early models, and got thinner in later models of Hiawatha bikes. This post will contain links to serial number datatbases, pictures and anything else that will help to ID your old bike. This will be a work in progress so PM me any info you have that may help. Most links will be for outside sites. Find the serial number on the bike. Locations- under BB, dropouts, headtube, seatpost clamp. Serial Number.
Torker info.
Glad to help out and actually pretty straight forward for the year the 'original' Torker was around, 1976 - 1984.
Prior to Torker the company was run by John Johnson, Steve Johnson's dad, called Texon founded in 1975. Steve's younger brother Doug was racing BMX but wanted a better bike so his Dad created the first prototype that I've included a picture of.
1976 Steve changed the name to Johnson Engineering then again to Torker. His Mom, Doris, was the bookkeeper and Doug ran the sister company MAX which started in 1980.
1976 - 1979 Torker MX (Big Bike), large Pro size frame with forward facing dropouts then in May 1978 changed to rear facing dropouts (20' Top tube). Had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. The headtube and bottom bracket were still mild steel.
1978 - 1982 Torker LP, Low Profile for the smaller and expert racers with redefined geometry (18.5' Top tube). Again had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. Mild steel serial numbers ending in an M
1978 Torker L.P.G.T. complete bike with European bottom bracket and serial number ending in an E.
1979 Torker TorkFlyte complete expert bike
1979 Torker MaxFlyte complete Pro bike
1979 - 1982 Torker LP long model, Low Profile but one inch longer top tube (19.5'). Again had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. Serial number ending in an O
1979 - 1980 Torker Eddy King replica model, Low Profile with European bottom bracket.
1979, late in the year the serial numbers changed from the Bottom brackets to the right rear inner dropout.
1980 Torker TrashFlyte complete bike, all mild steel with steel components
1980 - 1983 Torker Mini, light weight and no gussets. Serial number ending in a R
1981 Torker 26' cruiser chromoly frame and forks with serial number ending in a C
1982 Torker 24' cruiser chromoly frame and forks with a serial number ending in a C
1982 - 1983 Torker LPT, Low Profile with European bottom bracket as Eddy King was now riding for Diamond Back
1982 Torker 340 complete 24' cruiser
1982 Torker 280 complete 20' bike
1982 Torker 280x complete 20' bike, longer frame
1982 Torker serial numbers changed to begin with TZZ down to TAA in September
1982 Torker built the first freestyle specific frame and fork, the Haro Freestyler with a serial number ending in F
1982 Torker 280 and 280x frames had an oval gusset to prevent cracks with new decals
1983 Torker Pro-X frame with no classic gusset, machined head tube and bottom bracket, and Redline style head tube gussets. Serial numbers ending in P.
1983 Torker made Haro Freestylers were now made by Anlun (Taiwan) late 1983.
1984 Torker Micro Mini which was a smaller/lighter mini with an integrated seat post clamp and parallel double top tubes
1984 Torker Torklite complete Micro mini bike
1984 Torker Freestylist, Designed by Martin Aparijo and not many produced due to the bankruptcy November 1984.
1984 Mini Pro, Made specifically for Craig Bark but was not mass produced due to the bankruptcy which was larger than a micro mini but smaller than a Pro-X
1984 Torker Magnum complete bike, low end version like the 280
1984 Torker filed for bankruptcy
1985 Torker name bought by Seattle Bike Supply
1986 Torker name bought by Tioga and Torker 2 Freestyle brand was introduced
1990's Torker name owned by Seattle Bike Supply and produced alloy 20 and 24' frame, forks, and complete bikes in 1997 - 1999
Hope this helps and if you need more details let me know
Here are the date codes followed by the model ID codes:
TA=May 1978
TB=June 1978
TC=July 1978
TD=Aug. 1978
TE=Sept. 1978
TF=Oct. 1978
TG=Nov. 1978
TH=Dec. 1978
TI=Jan. 1979
TJ=Feb. 1979
TK=March 1979
TL=April 1979
TM=May 1979
TN=June 1979
TO=July 1979
TP=Aug. 1979
TQ=Sept. 1979
TR=Oct. 1979
TS=Nov. 1979
TT=Dec. 1979
TU=Jan. 1980
TV=Feb. 1980
TW=March 1980
TX=April 1980
TY=May 1980
TZ=June 1980
AT=July 1980
BT=Aug. 1980
CT=Sept. 1980
DT=Oct. 1980
ET=Nov. 1980
FT=Dec. 1980
GT=Jan. 1981
HT=Feb. 1981
IT=March 1981
JT=April 1981
KT=May 1981
LT=June 1981
MT=July 1981
NT=Aug. 1981
OT=Sept. 1981
PT=Oct. 1981
QT=Nov. 1981
RT=Dec. 1981
ST=Jan. 1982
TT=Feb. 1982
UT=March 1982
VT=April 1982
WT=May 1982
XT=June 1982
YT=July 1982
ZT=Aug. 1982
TZZ=Sept. 1982
TYY=Oct. 1982
TXX=Nov. 1982
TWW=Dec.1982
TVV=Jan. 1983
TUU=Feb. 1983
TTT=March 1983
TSS=April 1983
TRR=May 1983
TQQ=June 1983
TPP=July 1983
TOO=Aug. 1983
TNN=Sept. 1983
TMM=Oct. 1983
TLL=Nov. 1983
TKK=Dec. 1983
TJJ=Jan. 1984
TII=Feb. 1984
THH-March 1984
TGG=April 1984
TFF=May 1984
TEE=June 1984
TDD=July 1984
TCC=Aug. 1984
TBB=Sept. 1984
TAA=Oct. 1984
Model Codes:
B = Big Bike (from May 1978; had rear-facing dropouts; previously the MX)
BM = Mild Steel Big Bike
E = Eddy King Replica (European BB)
L = L.P. (Low Profile)
No Letter = Standard L.P.
LM = Mild Steel L.P. (1978-1979)
M = Mild Steel L.P., 1980+
0 (or O) = 20”, Long L.P. (has longer top tube (19”)
0M (or OM) = 20”, Long Mild Steel L.P. (has longer top tube (19”)
No Letter = Standard 280 (from Sept. 1982)
0 (or O) = 280 Long, (has longer top tube (19”) (from Sept. 1982)
0X (or OX) = 280 Long (has oval-hole gusset and 19” top tube) (from some time in 1983)
P = Pro XL, late-1983, (has longer top tube (19.5”), Haro/Redline-style gusset, butted tubing and 1 1/8” down tube)
SC = 24” cruiser (Small/Short Cruiser)
C = 26” cruiser (Cruiser)
R = Mini
RP = 1984 Mini Pro (Only known frame belonged to Factory Torker rider Craig Bark)
Glad to help out and actually pretty straight forward for the year the 'original' Torker was around, 1976 - 1984.
Prior to Torker the company was run by John Johnson, Steve Johnson's dad, called Texon founded in 1975. Steve's younger brother Doug was racing BMX but wanted a better bike so his Dad created the first prototype that I've included a picture of.
1976 Steve changed the name to Johnson Engineering then again to Torker. His Mom, Doris, was the bookkeeper and Doug ran the sister company MAX which started in 1980.
1976 - 1979 Torker MX (Big Bike), large Pro size frame with forward facing dropouts then in May 1978 changed to rear facing dropouts (20' Top tube). Had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. The headtube and bottom bracket were still mild steel.
1978 - 1982 Torker LP, Low Profile for the smaller and expert racers with redefined geometry (18.5' Top tube). Again had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. Mild steel serial numbers ending in an M
1978 Torker L.P.G.T. complete bike with European bottom bracket and serial number ending in an E.
1979 Torker TorkFlyte complete expert bike
1979 Torker MaxFlyte complete Pro bike
1979 - 1982 Torker LP long model, Low Profile but one inch longer top tube (19.5'). Again had all mild steel and chromoly tube models. Serial number ending in an O
1979 - 1980 Torker Eddy King replica model, Low Profile with European bottom bracket.
1979, late in the year the serial numbers changed from the Bottom brackets to the right rear inner dropout.
1980 Torker TrashFlyte complete bike, all mild steel with steel components
1980 - 1983 Torker Mini, light weight and no gussets. Serial number ending in a R
1981 Torker 26' cruiser chromoly frame and forks with serial number ending in a C
1982 Torker 24' cruiser chromoly frame and forks with a serial number ending in a C
1982 - 1983 Torker LPT, Low Profile with European bottom bracket as Eddy King was now riding for Diamond Back
1982 Torker 340 complete 24' cruiser
1982 Torker 280 complete 20' bike
1982 Torker 280x complete 20' bike, longer frame
1982 Torker serial numbers changed to begin with TZZ down to TAA in September
1982 Torker built the first freestyle specific frame and fork, the Haro Freestyler with a serial number ending in F
1982 Torker 280 and 280x frames had an oval gusset to prevent cracks with new decals
1983 Torker Pro-X frame with no classic gusset, machined head tube and bottom bracket, and Redline style head tube gussets. Serial numbers ending in P.
1983 Torker made Haro Freestylers were now made by Anlun (Taiwan) late 1983.
1984 Torker Micro Mini which was a smaller/lighter mini with an integrated seat post clamp and parallel double top tubes
1984 Torker Torklite complete Micro mini bike
1984 Torker Freestylist, Designed by Martin Aparijo and not many produced due to the bankruptcy November 1984.
1984 Mini Pro, Made specifically for Craig Bark but was not mass produced due to the bankruptcy which was larger than a micro mini but smaller than a Pro-X
1984 Torker Magnum complete bike, low end version like the 280
1984 Torker filed for bankruptcy
1985 Torker name bought by Seattle Bike Supply
1986 Torker name bought by Tioga and Torker 2 Freestyle brand was introduced
1990's Torker name owned by Seattle Bike Supply and produced alloy 20 and 24' frame, forks, and complete bikes in 1997 - 1999
Hope this helps and if you need more details let me know
Here are the date codes followed by the model ID codes:
TA=May 1978
TB=June 1978
TC=July 1978
TD=Aug. 1978
TE=Sept. 1978
TF=Oct. 1978
TG=Nov. 1978
TH=Dec. 1978
TI=Jan. 1979
TJ=Feb. 1979
TK=March 1979
TL=April 1979
TM=May 1979
TN=June 1979
TO=July 1979
TP=Aug. 1979
TQ=Sept. 1979
TR=Oct. 1979
TS=Nov. 1979
TT=Dec. 1979
TU=Jan. 1980
TV=Feb. 1980
TW=March 1980
TX=April 1980
TY=May 1980
TZ=June 1980
AT=July 1980
BT=Aug. 1980
CT=Sept. 1980
DT=Oct. 1980
ET=Nov. 1980
FT=Dec. 1980
GT=Jan. 1981
HT=Feb. 1981
IT=March 1981
JT=April 1981
KT=May 1981
LT=June 1981
MT=July 1981
NT=Aug. 1981
OT=Sept. 1981
PT=Oct. 1981
QT=Nov. 1981
RT=Dec. 1981
ST=Jan. 1982
TT=Feb. 1982
UT=March 1982
VT=April 1982
WT=May 1982
XT=June 1982
YT=July 1982
ZT=Aug. 1982
TZZ=Sept. 1982
TYY=Oct. 1982
TXX=Nov. 1982
TWW=Dec.1982
TVV=Jan. 1983
TUU=Feb. 1983
TTT=March 1983
TSS=April 1983
TRR=May 1983
TQQ=June 1983
TPP=July 1983
TOO=Aug. 1983
TNN=Sept. 1983
TMM=Oct. 1983
TLL=Nov. 1983
TKK=Dec. 1983
TJJ=Jan. 1984
TII=Feb. 1984
THH-March 1984
TGG=April 1984
TFF=May 1984
TEE=June 1984
TDD=July 1984
TCC=Aug. 1984
TBB=Sept. 1984
TAA=Oct. 1984
Model Codes:
B = Big Bike (from May 1978; had rear-facing dropouts; previously the MX)
BM = Mild Steel Big Bike
E = Eddy King Replica (European BB)
L = L.P. (Low Profile)
No Letter = Standard L.P.
LM = Mild Steel L.P. (1978-1979)
M = Mild Steel L.P., 1980+
0 (or O) = 20”, Long L.P. (has longer top tube (19”)
0M (or OM) = 20”, Long Mild Steel L.P. (has longer top tube (19”)
No Letter = Standard 280 (from Sept. 1982)
0 (or O) = 280 Long, (has longer top tube (19”) (from Sept. 1982)
0X (or OX) = 280 Long (has oval-hole gusset and 19” top tube) (from some time in 1983)
P = Pro XL, late-1983, (has longer top tube (19.5”), Haro/Redline-style gusset, butted tubing and 1 1/8” down tube)
SC = 24” cruiser (Small/Short Cruiser)
C = 26” cruiser (Cruiser)
R = Mini
RP = 1984 Mini Pro (Only known frame belonged to Factory Torker rider Craig Bark)
PlanetX wrote:
http://fortyfour16.wordpress.com/2010/0 … ber-guide/
http://fortyfour16.wordpress.com/torker-history/
The ONLY Torker Serial Numbers I have figured out and that I cared about were those made between 1976 and 1984. Other than the very earliest, these all have a letter and a T, either TA or AT, or later TAA. These are usually followed by a series of digits and then a letter or two, as in AT 1234 M or AT 1234 0. Anything outside the serial numbers that follow this format, 540 Airs, Torker 2s, post-1984 Pro XLs, etc. were made overseas and follow a different formula. I HAVE NO INFO on these.
Here's my blog post.
One of my goals with this Blog is to pass on information I've collected. Since day-one of my entry into vintage BMX collecting, I've been frustrated by the lack of accurate information on the various bikes, frames, parts, etc. that are attractive to the collecting community. When I had questions, most of the answers I got were based on guesses, gossip, 30-year-old foggy memories and hearsay. As a reporter and a 20-year member of the bike industry, I knew the answers I sought were out there. So, I began researching and reporting”I actually talked to the people who made and sold the stuff I was collecting. Two of my first goals were to decipher the serial numbers Torker put on its frames and to better understand Torker's corporate and product histories.
What follows is the serial number guide I've complied based on the accumulation of scores of Torker serial numbers over a 3 year period.
A few months into collecting serial numbers (SN), I had a theory on how Torker’s system worked month-by-month. At the time, however, I overlooked a few details and couldn't make all the number fit my theory. I also had a few odd-ball numbers (still do) that exist due to: 1. Misread/inaccurately reported SN; 2. Poorly stamped SN; 3. Factory Mislabeling; 4. Unreadable SN; 5. All of the above.
As it turns out, my first theory was dead-on. Those few odd-balls notwithstanding, I’m 90+% sure I’ve cracked the code from May 1978 when the Low Profile and Big Bike production began to October 1984 when the original U.S.-based company went bankrupt.
Prior to May 1978, Torker seems to have used the “standard” BMX SN system that many companies used. I have only two SNs from that time, but I am pretty confident of how they work. The two I have are T877188 and T977270. My best guess: “T” for Torker, month (August and September), year (1977), frame production number (188 and 270).
Starting in May 1978, Torker went with two letters (T? or ?T) a T for Torker and a second letter corresponding to the month of production. The first letter in the series is “A” for May. Next is the production number of the model. The final letter represents the frame model. For example: TJ 3344 L = February 1979; the 3,344th frame in the model series; 'L' for Low Profile (L.P.) or, The 3344th L.P. was made in February 1979. One caveat to this is if Torker used a letter to identify the model through 1978. I only have two SNs from 1978 and neither has a final letter.
The first series starts with 'TA' in May 1978 and ends 26 months later in June 1980. In July 1980, a new series starts with 'AT' and runs 26 months to August 1982. The model production numbers continue sequentially through both systems.
In September 1982, Torker switched to a new system starting with three letters TZZ to TAA. Around this time, Torker also changed its product line, dropping or changing all previous models and/or names. For example, the L.P. was renamed the 280 and all mild steel models were eliminated. The SN system, however, remained the same, with the exception of the three first letters and that it started at the end of the alphabet rather than the beginning. For example: TRR 8122 = May 1983; the 8,122 frame in the model series; no letter for 280. Frame production numbers started over from '1' with 'TZZ'
Most SNs end with a letter. The letter identifies the model. Those SNs that lack a final letter are either L.P.s or 280s, depending on when the frame was made. Torker dropped the 'L' when it discontinued the Big Bike (B). At the same time, Mild steel L.P.s went from LM to M.
Previously, I wrote that a frame with the SN on the BB was made prior to 1980. As I collected more SNs, I began to question this theory. I now believe this is incorrect. Indeed, Torker used the SN on the BB early on, but it used it until mid-1980. From about that time, depending on the model (but there is no obvious solid date) the SN was put on the right, rear dropout. Using the SN location to date your frame should be avoided. The best way to ID your frame is to use the SN code that follows. These codes also can be found on my web site: wwwfortyfour16design.com .
http://fortyfour16.wordpress.com/torker-history/
The ONLY Torker Serial Numbers I have figured out and that I cared about were those made between 1976 and 1984. Other than the very earliest, these all have a letter and a T, either TA or AT, or later TAA. These are usually followed by a series of digits and then a letter or two, as in AT 1234 M or AT 1234 0. Anything outside the serial numbers that follow this format, 540 Airs, Torker 2s, post-1984 Pro XLs, etc. were made overseas and follow a different formula. I HAVE NO INFO on these.
Here's my blog post.
One of my goals with this Blog is to pass on information I've collected. Since day-one of my entry into vintage BMX collecting, I've been frustrated by the lack of accurate information on the various bikes, frames, parts, etc. that are attractive to the collecting community. When I had questions, most of the answers I got were based on guesses, gossip, 30-year-old foggy memories and hearsay. As a reporter and a 20-year member of the bike industry, I knew the answers I sought were out there. So, I began researching and reporting”I actually talked to the people who made and sold the stuff I was collecting. Two of my first goals were to decipher the serial numbers Torker put on its frames and to better understand Torker's corporate and product histories.
What follows is the serial number guide I've complied based on the accumulation of scores of Torker serial numbers over a 3 year period.
A few months into collecting serial numbers (SN), I had a theory on how Torker’s system worked month-by-month. At the time, however, I overlooked a few details and couldn't make all the number fit my theory. I also had a few odd-ball numbers (still do) that exist due to: 1. Misread/inaccurately reported SN; 2. Poorly stamped SN; 3. Factory Mislabeling; 4. Unreadable SN; 5. All of the above.
As it turns out, my first theory was dead-on. Those few odd-balls notwithstanding, I’m 90+% sure I’ve cracked the code from May 1978 when the Low Profile and Big Bike production began to October 1984 when the original U.S.-based company went bankrupt.
Prior to May 1978, Torker seems to have used the “standard” BMX SN system that many companies used. I have only two SNs from that time, but I am pretty confident of how they work. The two I have are T877188 and T977270. My best guess: “T” for Torker, month (August and September), year (1977), frame production number (188 and 270).
Starting in May 1978, Torker went with two letters (T? or ?T) a T for Torker and a second letter corresponding to the month of production. The first letter in the series is “A” for May. Next is the production number of the model. The final letter represents the frame model. For example: TJ 3344 L = February 1979; the 3,344th frame in the model series; 'L' for Low Profile (L.P.) or, The 3344th L.P. was made in February 1979. One caveat to this is if Torker used a letter to identify the model through 1978. I only have two SNs from 1978 and neither has a final letter.
The first series starts with 'TA' in May 1978 and ends 26 months later in June 1980. In July 1980, a new series starts with 'AT' and runs 26 months to August 1982. The model production numbers continue sequentially through both systems.
In September 1982, Torker switched to a new system starting with three letters TZZ to TAA. Around this time, Torker also changed its product line, dropping or changing all previous models and/or names. For example, the L.P. was renamed the 280 and all mild steel models were eliminated. The SN system, however, remained the same, with the exception of the three first letters and that it started at the end of the alphabet rather than the beginning. For example: TRR 8122 = May 1983; the 8,122 frame in the model series; no letter for 280. Frame production numbers started over from '1' with 'TZZ'
Most SNs end with a letter. The letter identifies the model. Those SNs that lack a final letter are either L.P.s or 280s, depending on when the frame was made. Torker dropped the 'L' when it discontinued the Big Bike (B). At the same time, Mild steel L.P.s went from LM to M.
Previously, I wrote that a frame with the SN on the BB was made prior to 1980. As I collected more SNs, I began to question this theory. I now believe this is incorrect. Indeed, Torker used the SN on the BB early on, but it used it until mid-1980. From about that time, depending on the model (but there is no obvious solid date) the SN was put on the right, rear dropout. Using the SN location to date your frame should be avoided. The best way to ID your frame is to use the SN code that follows. These codes also can be found on my web site: wwwfortyfour16design.com .
Submitted by GAry (View all 175 posts)
This item has been shown 0 times. Mtu engines workshop manual pdf.
1963 Hiawatha Astro-flite Mens Cruiser Tank Bike Vintage Bicycle Western Flyer:
$144
shadow27 Store 1963 HIAWATHA ASTRO-FLITE MENS CRUISER TANK BIKE VINTAGE BICYCLE WESTERN FLYER!
Click Photos to Enlarge
Click to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to EnlargeClick to Enlarge
Here is an original VINTAGE (I was told this bike was new in approx 1963. The serial number is 365172) men's HIAWATAHA 'Astro Flite' beach cruiser bicycle with 26' wheels. Filemaker pro mac torrent italiani. It is in the original and very appealing dark red colored factory paint. If you like UNIQUE original bikes, this may be a great bike for you. With the insanely high price of gas (and the economy being bad) now is the time to ride a cool vintage bike! These bikes are super cool and I believe were also sold under the 'Western Flyer' name at Western Auto Stores!
*The tires are 26x1.75'. They are vintage whitewall tires and do hold air. The bike has chrome rims raised center rims front and rear witih a Perry B-100 rear hub.
*The bike is an original SINGLE SPEED with coaster brakes. (pedal slightly backwards to stop the bike)
*DIMENSIONS The stand over height is approx 30 1//4'. The distance from the floor to the top of the seat post clamp is approx 28'. The distance from the center of the crank to the top of the seat post clamp is approx 18 1/2'. The center of the handlebar stem to the center of the seat post is approx 22'. The bike will accommodate most any rider comfortably. The seat height is easy to adjust.
*NOTED FLAWS It is not 100% flawless but is ok for its age. The paint looks ok for a 50+ year old bike! (I love original paint bikes) It does have chips scratches etc) The chrome is shiney but is not perfect show quality. Both wheels have a slight wobble when you spin them. I am guessing the front wheel and tire were replaced. The tire has more of a grey look and the rim on the chrome isnt as nice. Im thinking the front fender may have been replaced too. NOT trying to nit pick this cool bike, just like to be honest. (see pics and be your own judge) Either way, its a really cool ride! Would need a resto for show or enjoy it just like it is! These bikes are cool and going UP in value! If you click on any of the pics they get very large to show lots of detail. Please take a look at all pics for exact condition and email with any questions before you offer.
*This appears to be a fairly nice original unmolested bicycle unless otherwise noted. A great bike to ride on relaxing days through the park or to the beach. Also would be a nice item to display in a shop, restaurant, rec room, sports bar, etc. Stand out from the crowd and be the envy of people who see you riding by. People will enjoy seeing you on your vintage bike! A great classic bike at a great price
*Why not ride a bike? You will live longer, feel better, and save $$$ vs of the insanely high cost of gasoline. If you are looking for a fun bike to ride and enjoy this may be it! A nice bike to cruise the beach or your local park! Priced way less than a dime store bike that wont be around 5 years from now, much less 30+ years like this one! Please give this bike a good home and DON'T MISS THIS OPPORTUNITY! Classic bikes are very cool because not everyone on the block has one! People love to see and talk about and ride these classic bikes! They are more popular now than ever before!
*This may be a great Birthday or other special holiday gift for someone! It is never too soon to think ahead and get someone something they may really like!! This starts reasonably with ABSOLUTELY so offer early and don't miss out! These are getting to be hard to find in any condition and to my knowledge, have not been reproduced.
*Sold as is simply because it is used. I try my very best to describe as accurately as possible and disclose anything I am aware of about the bike. PLEASE NOTE that many of the bikes I list have listed have been in long term storage and have not been regularly ridden in a while.(not a bad thing) They may need standard tuning, greasing, may have old tires, surface rust etc. I try to be as honest as possible and never want to disappoint anyone. If you have any questions regarding any specific things concerning the bike, please feel feel to ASK via emali before you offer. Keep in mind you are offerding on a 30+ year old bike that is not a brand new bicycle so it may need minor tuning, cables or cable adjustment, if tires are original, they may or may not have sidewall cracks, etc. I try to be as honest as I can and disclose anything I know about the bike. I want you to be happy with your new vintage purchase but please understand the bike may need some tlc to be road ready.
*By offerding please understand that you are purchasing a used bicycle that may or may not need tlc. If I notice an issue, I always try to note it in the sale listing. I want you to be excited about your new bike and hope you really enjoy your new vintage ride for years to come. Be sure to check out all pics and email with any questions you may have before you offer regarding condition, mechanical items, etc.
*NOTE REGARDING SHIPPING YOUR BIKE Your bike will be partially disassembled and shipped to you in a factory bicycle box. We try our best to package the bicycles carefully to avoid any unnecessary damage caused in transit however, scratches etc are possible to happen in transit which we have no control over once shipped. We try to package well so the bike arrives to you in the same condition as it left us.
*The bike is an original SINGLE SPEED with coaster brakes. (pedal slightly backwards to stop the bike)
*DIMENSIONS The stand over height is approx 30 1//4'. The distance from the floor to the top of the seat post clamp is approx 28'. The distance from the center of the crank to the top of the seat post clamp is approx 18 1/2'. The center of the handlebar stem to the center of the seat post is approx 22'. The bike will accommodate most any rider comfortably. The seat height is easy to adjust.
*NOTED FLAWS It is not 100% flawless but is ok for its age. The paint looks ok for a 50+ year old bike! (I love original paint bikes) It does have chips scratches etc) The chrome is shiney but is not perfect show quality. Both wheels have a slight wobble when you spin them. I am guessing the front wheel and tire were replaced. The tire has more of a grey look and the rim on the chrome isnt as nice. Im thinking the front fender may have been replaced too. NOT trying to nit pick this cool bike, just like to be honest. (see pics and be your own judge) Either way, its a really cool ride! Would need a resto for show or enjoy it just like it is! These bikes are cool and going UP in value! If you click on any of the pics they get very large to show lots of detail. Please take a look at all pics for exact condition and email with any questions before you offer.
*This appears to be a fairly nice original unmolested bicycle unless otherwise noted. A great bike to ride on relaxing days through the park or to the beach. Also would be a nice item to display in a shop, restaurant, rec room, sports bar, etc. Stand out from the crowd and be the envy of people who see you riding by. People will enjoy seeing you on your vintage bike! A great classic bike at a great price
*Why not ride a bike? You will live longer, feel better, and save $$$ vs of the insanely high cost of gasoline. If you are looking for a fun bike to ride and enjoy this may be it! A nice bike to cruise the beach or your local park! Priced way less than a dime store bike that wont be around 5 years from now, much less 30+ years like this one! Please give this bike a good home and DON'T MISS THIS OPPORTUNITY! Classic bikes are very cool because not everyone on the block has one! People love to see and talk about and ride these classic bikes! They are more popular now than ever before!
*This may be a great Birthday or other special holiday gift for someone! It is never too soon to think ahead and get someone something they may really like!! This starts reasonably with ABSOLUTELY so offer early and don't miss out! These are getting to be hard to find in any condition and to my knowledge, have not been reproduced.
*Sold as is simply because it is used. I try my very best to describe as accurately as possible and disclose anything I am aware of about the bike. PLEASE NOTE that many of the bikes I list have listed have been in long term storage and have not been regularly ridden in a while.(not a bad thing) They may need standard tuning, greasing, may have old tires, surface rust etc. I try to be as honest as possible and never want to disappoint anyone. If you have any questions regarding any specific things concerning the bike, please feel feel to ASK via emali before you offer. Keep in mind you are offerding on a 30+ year old bike that is not a brand new bicycle so it may need minor tuning, cables or cable adjustment, if tires are original, they may or may not have sidewall cracks, etc. I try to be as honest as I can and disclose anything I know about the bike. I want you to be happy with your new vintage purchase but please understand the bike may need some tlc to be road ready.
*By offerding please understand that you are purchasing a used bicycle that may or may not need tlc. If I notice an issue, I always try to note it in the sale listing. I want you to be excited about your new bike and hope you really enjoy your new vintage ride for years to come. Be sure to check out all pics and email with any questions you may have before you offer regarding condition, mechanical items, etc.
*NOTE REGARDING SHIPPING YOUR BIKE Your bike will be partially disassembled and shipped to you in a factory bicycle box. We try our best to package the bicycles carefully to avoid any unnecessary damage caused in transit however, scratches etc are possible to happen in transit which we have no control over once shipped. We try to package well so the bike arrives to you in the same condition as it left us.
*SHIPPING COSTS: Fed Ex, USPS, as well as UPS have recently raised their shipping rates due to the higher cost of fuel. Sorry for the slight increase in shipping costs.
*PLEASE NOTE, I WILL NO LONGER BE SHIPPING FULL SIZE BIKES OUTSIDE OF THE USA. This is due to the high cost of shipping and customs. If you are anywhere outside the lower 48 States including Alaska, Hawaii, or Puerto Rico contact me before you offer as shipping will cost more.</b>
*I have lots of other rare bicycles, bike parts and bike accessories, as well as vintage car parts and unique items on sale this week! Check them out! Combine items to save yourself $$$ on shipping! Email with any questions you may have.
Payment and Shipping *PLEASE NOTE, I WILL NO LONGER BE SHIPPING FULL SIZE BIKES OUTSIDE OF THE USA. This is due to the high cost of shipping and customs. If you are anywhere outside the lower 48 States including Alaska, Hawaii, or Puerto Rico contact me before you offer as shipping will cost more.</b>
*I have lots of other rare bicycles, bike parts and bike accessories, as well as vintage car parts and unique items on sale this week! Check them out! Combine items to save yourself $$$ on shipping! Email with any questions you may have.
Hiawatha Bike Value
PAYMENT TERMS: Spongebob season 4 episode titles.
Paypal is 's accepted form of payment. Items are shipped every Tuesday and every Friday. Payments received by Monday generally ship on Tuesday. Payments received after generally ship on Friday.
SHIPPING TERMS:
SHIPPING TIME I ship bikes on Tuesdays and Fridays via Fed Ex. Generally, if I receive your payment by 1 pm central time on Monday, it allows me enough time to get your bike to the shop for packing and to ship along with the Tuesday AM shipment. If I receive your payment by 1 pm central time on Thursday, it gives enough time to have it packed and ship Friday AM. If paid after that time, please expect it to go out with the next shipment. (Wisconsin residents ONLY add 5.5% sales tax.)
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